Mission after mission, a bunch of if’s and a female Mexican captain makes up week 9.

Words taken from my daily journals, with some enhancements…..here or there.

Back and forth, back and forth….making our way throughout the Baja.

Back and forth, back and forth….making our way throughout the Baja.

San Javier Mission (near Loreto, Baja California): Mid morning, we drove up in the mountains to explore the area. I’m standing outside on the brick street leading towards the Mission. It’s crisp and cool up here but I’m very much enjoying the warmth of the daylight shining down on me.

San Javier Mission and all its glory!

San Javier Mission and all its glory!

It’s pretty surreal to be at a mission that Edie walked to, years ago. Her 2nd stop in the Baja took three days to get here. I’m not sure how she did it. The road, which took an hour to drive, was pretty much straight up through the desert mountains! And I know she did’t take the paved road, like we did.

Her drive to go into the wild to walk here, and beyond, fills my heart and inspires me to want to dream, dare, and do more. Her courage is infectious and has come alive as I stand where she once did. 

Outside of the mission, inside alter, and candles light inside the mission as well.

This town, or village, is small yet filled with ancient history. One of the grounds keepers took me over to look at a plaque with the mission and areas history. With little words passed between us I quickly understood the importance of this place, especially to the people who call it home. 

Plaque outside the mission with historic details of San Javier Mission.

Plaque outside the mission with historic details of San Javier Mission.


If I…….(Loreto a few days later, near the city square)

I’m sitting at a café, Café Ole. I came here to, once again, try Loreto on it’s latte art skills. Walking up to the counter I quickly realized this art form is a thing of the past. Instead, I ordered a Café (cup of coffee) and put in fake cream, sugar, and cinnamon. It’s delicious! Walking outside, with my piping hot coffee, the locals have filled up the tables. I grab the only open one, nestling in and making myself at home. 

Journaling while enjoying my cafe, the sites, and the city!

Journaling while enjoying my cafe, the sites, and the city!

All the outside cafes, old buildings, and the stray dogs searching for scraps makes this place feel like Europe. If I lived here it would take all my efforts not to take all these dogs home with me! And if I lived here I would spend my morning at a cafe like this, just to get outta the house. Then a quick stop to the market before heading home to work in the studio. At dusk, I’d walk to a shack for taco’s and tequila or spend a quiet night at home with some of my own hippie food with fresh market produce. If, I lived here. 

Bikes, books, and burros….sign me up!!!!

Where it all Began

I find it very emotional, sitting here, at the Loreto mission. I’m in the first row of pews, looking up at the massive elaborate alter. Jesus is staying tall behind red velvet curtains that open up to reveal his holiness. I can’t help but think of OZ, the other great man behind a curtain. 

Alter of the Loreto Mission with the man behind the curtain.

Alter of the Loreto Mission with the man behind the curtain.

This is where it all began, where Edie started her mission walk. She was inspired by the original mission walkers and now, I find myself inspired by her. Life times beyond lifetimes inspiring each other. The only thing I wanted to see in the Baja was this mission. To see where Edie stood before heading out on her grand epic walk across the Baja. I thanked Edie, and the others past, before leaving the mission. Walking out, I though it’s intriguing, how we can be connected by a place, or a thing, or a thought, or a passion, or a drive. It’s actually pretty freaking rad.

Loreto Mission, Loreto Baja California

Loreto Mission, Loreto Baja California


Todos Santos at La Catrina’s Cantina: Enjoying a nightcap of copa de vino tinto. The street is starting to come alive with vendors and night life. 

We’ve parked the RV on the street next to a city park with public restrooms. Last night, after we watched “Working Girl”, I emerged from the RV and headed to the restroom. It was cool to see the families playing in the park, skate punks hitting the ramps, and teens sitting around chatting. The air was filled with the fresh delicious smell of peppers grilling, I’d wished I had grabbed a couple of pesos. I continued to walk around, checking out the emerging night festivities. As the neon signs popped on, more vendors wheeled out and kids wheeled home. I’m stoked how artsy, safe, and fun this city is. 

Shop owner Pepe, sharing stories with Alice and me. Getting to know the locals, what traveling is all about!

Shop owner Pepe, sharing stories with Alice and me. Getting to know the locals, what traveling is all about!

Flagging flying high, art in shops and on the streets at every corner in Todos Santos!

Night life in Todos Santos beginning to wake!

Night life in Todos Santos beginning to wake!


Cabo Wabo (I’m a #rothnothagar fan but I needed a good title, so I hope you can forgive me)

Cabo San Lucas was a blur, a good blur. Driving south from Todos Santos, we ran into Cabo. We found ourselves on a glass bottom boat headed out to sea. It was beautiful. It felt good to be on the water, the energy on land was….well….very very very very very very touristy. The water was as well, but there was more space to breathe. The blue waves were violent from all the boats heading in and out. The rock formations were just like all the magazine photos but better. Tropical fish came up to the boat, sea lions laid out on rocks sun bathing, and pelicans snapped at whatever they could get their beaks on. The swarm of tourist (including myself) clicked at every moment with their camera, hoping their phones wouldn’t plummet to their death, miles below the luscious blue waters. And as fast as we arrived, we found ourselves out of Cabo and headed north, away from the southern most tip of the Baja.

El Arco at the southern tip of the Baja California.

El Arco at the southern tip of the Baja California.

Pelicans and vibrant fish swimming about in the cool blue waters of the Baja.


Headed outta the Baja: Aquamarina RV Park in La Paz, sitting peacefully, centered, grounded after yoga, meditation, and chanting. The view of the sea is calming, even if its a bit blocked by a chain link fence. 

Once we left Cabo, we were on the fast track outta the Baja. Yesterday was a long day of driving, so we are gonna stay in La Paz for two nights. We’re at an very interesting place. The older woman, who’s the owner, told us her history. She was the first Mexican female captain. Her and her husband had a dive company. Since he was American, he couldn’t get his captain license, so she did. She told us many more tales of their adventures. 

Capt. May-Lou’s and her memories

Capt. May-Lou’s and her memories

After a long chat, she suggested the restaurant, across the way and on the beach, for dinner. Alice and I ordered tequila to start. I was so tired, my Spanish was non existent and our servers english was the same. I got my act together, pushing my exhaustion to the side and relying on my phone to help translate. I ordered a whole snapper cooked in tomatoes, onions, peppers, and green olives! It was the best meal I’d had to date in the Baja! And at this little family run shack. I LOVED it!

My delicious Red Snapper, it was amazing!!!!!!

My delicious Red Snapper, it was amazing!!!!!!


The next few days we headed from town to town, making our way north towards the US boarder. 

A great sign for the women’s toilet while staying in  Ciudad Constitucion .

A great sign for the women’s toilet while staying in Ciudad Constitucion.

The Clam Shack near Loreto, the best chocolate clams around, Poop fairy in and blue jellyfish in Mulege.

Nothing fills a nomad’s heart like an outdoor bathroom!

Nothing fills a nomad’s heart like an outdoor bathroom!


Next post: Baja’s epic Valle de Guadalupe wine country, which has over 250 vineyards and the BEST FOOD!!!! You’ll wanna hear all about this tastiness.  


#heartshapedworld

I just happened to find a heart shaped rock outside the Mission in San Javier, coincidence or not?

I just happened to find a heart shaped rock outside the Mission in San Javier, coincidence or not?

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